On Saturday, Stephen Pessagno, co-founder of Pessagno Vineyards in Monterey County, passed away. He was 55. Steve Heimoff writes a thoughtful obituary.   

From Wikimedia.

On Monday evening, “thieves broke into a warehouse at France’s renowned Chateau d’Yquem and stole 380 half bottles of wine.” The take was worth about $132,000.

“Having spent all my wine years as a member of the wine press, my experiences are that winemakers and wine sellers are usually found in nice restaurants, at long lunches or dinners, or at special tasting events organized to present the wines in the most attractive way possible. The real world is a tougher arena.” Paul Gregutt hits the road hawking his wines.

In both Barolo and Barbaresco, vintners are experimenting with whole-cluster fermentation. In Wine-Searcher, Kerin O’Keefe has the details.

“Glass shape changes the ways in which aromatic compounds come up into the headspace of a glass over time, and… we’re capable of smelling at least some of those differences.” In Palate Press, Erika Szymanski highlights some a fascinating study on glass shape conducted by researchers at UC Davis. 

“For the couple behind some of South America’s most spectacular boutique hotels… this would be the biggest challenge yet.” In Food & Wine, Salma Abdelnour profiles Alex and Carrie Vik, the “art-collecting couple” behind Vina Vik, a hotel and winery in Chile’s Millahue Valley. 

“The legacy of Mondavi’s belief and passion lives on though the countless small producers who populate the Napa Valley, and the United States as a whole.” In Forbes, Katie Kelly Bell celebrates Robert Mondavi’s 100th Birthday. 

“Purists will wince.” France24 profiles the efforts of Winestar to “democratize the sale of quality wine” by selling it in cans.  

“Weed wine is always found in an unlabeled bottle with a blank cork and I try not to get too excited or aggressively ask for more.” In Vice, Bonnie Collins writes about some of the more herbaceous wines coming out of California.

As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are hosted by Palate Press: The Online Wine Magazine. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

In my latest column, I I take a look at the wine blogosphere — and argue that wine bloggers are virtually indistinguishable from the “conventional” wine media.

Wine Blogging Grows Up

Last week, about 250 wine bloggers gathered in Penticton, a small city in British Columbia, Canada, for the sixth annual North American Wine Bloggers’ Conference.

That so many wine enthusiasts would travel to a city five hours east of Vancouver isn’t surprising. Held in a different winemaking region each year, the annual conference brings together bloggers from across the world to meet one another, share tips and tricks, and learn from industry leaders.

What is surprising, though, is just how mature this group has become. What started as a small collection of amateur wine journalists embracing a new form of communication has evolved into a group of writers that’s virtually indistinguishable from the “conventional” wine media. 

The blogosphere has been trending in this direction for quite some time.

Check out the rest of the piece on Palate Press: The Online Wine Magazine.

Flickr, peruisay.

“It’s white wine, with a label proclaiming it is from the vineyards of Romanee-Conti, the bottle bearing the logo that is on bottles of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, and declares its origin as Montpellier in southern France.” Reuters highlights the problem of fake wines in China.

“The greatness of a vintage is confirmed when all the major Port houses declare the vintage, as they have now done with 2011.” In the International Herald Tribune, Eric Pfanner writes about the “excitement” surrounding the 2011 vintage in the Douro. 

“Weingut Robert Weil has been owned by the Japanese whisky giant Suntory since 1988, yet you would never know it.” In the Financial Times, Jancis Robinson highlights the number of wineries owned by Japanese companies.

In the Santa Rosa Press Democrat, Chris Smith writes a wonderful profile of Healdsburg teenager Colby Groom — and his efforts to raise money, through wine, for the American Heart Association.

“The best wines are exceptional, and they offer lessons to the valley as a whole.” In the San Francisco Chronicle (subscription required), Jon Bonné tastes through Napa’s 2010 vintage.

From The Week: “A pair of new studies suggests a correlation between intelligence and a thirst for alcohol.”

The Summer of Riesling releases its list of this year’s participants. Rock on and drink Riesling!

“We want this to be a real destination where you can come and you can see the history, you can see distillation.” In the Wall Street Journal, Jennifer Weiss writes about the plans of Dutch’s Spirits to open a distillery on the site of a Prohibition-era bootlegging outfit in Pine Plains, New York.

From Wikimedia.

On Saturday evening, the 2013 wine blog award winners were announced. #Honored #Humbled #Happy. 

The 2014 Wine Bloggers Conference will take place on July 11-13 in Santa Barbara, California.

“The experience is a lot like that Montmarte hostel. By chance, we all ended up in the same metaphorical dorm room, and now choose to keep in touch.” In a wonderful post, Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka reflects on wine blogging. 

“In a way, Wallace reminds me of soul singer James Brown — the early days — the dancing-on-street-corners-of-Augusta-Georgia-for-pennies days. Like Brown… Wallace’s wine language is also deeply felt my his fans.” In the Vallejo Times Herald, Rayne Wolfe profiles Hardy Wallace of Dirty & Rowdy. 

“Perhaps it’s time to shed the notion that Aglianico’s value comes from what it resembles rather than from what it is.” In the New York Times, Eric Asimov declares his love for Aglianico. 

“Although the selection seemed as random as it was far-ranging, the rewards were many and prices often absurdly low.” In the Wall Street Journal, Lettie Teague goes “looking for great values in Spanish wines.” 

“Not the most elegant of wine preservation systems, the Air Cork at first looks a bit like something you’d find at Spencer Gifts.” In Wired, Christopher Null tests five different wine-preservation systems. 

“Sorry, wine lovers: tariff threats won’t end China’s thirst for Bordeaux… French chateaux have more to fear from China’s anti-corruption drive than from trade war.” In Reuters, Peter Thal Larsen comments on the news that China might consider trade restrictions on wine imports from the European Union. 

Dave McIntyre reports that a mid-May cold snap caused “considerable damage to many Virginia and Maryland vineyards.” 

Howard Goldberg visits Brooklyn Uncorked to taste through Long Island’s diverse styles of rosés and whites. 

Champagne boosts brainpower. It’s science! 

In Wine Spectator, James Molesworth offers a sneak peek at South Africa’s upcoming vintage. 

In the Financial Times, Lucy Warwick-Ching offers a guide on “how to… invest in wine.” (Subscription required.)

Disclaimer: I love California Syrah. Unlike many of my wine nerd friends, my palate never outgrew the stuff. I drink it all year round, with grilled summer steaks and by itself on cold winter nights. Recently, I tasted my way through a bunch of California Syrahs and found, yet again, why I keep coming back for more.

All wines were received as trade samples and tasted blind.

2010 Epiphany Révélation
California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $40
Love the aromatic display of sweet plums, raspberries, violets and cinnamon. Plush mouthfeel with medium-grain tannins and enough acid. The plum and raspberry fruit flavors are pure and delicious, and they’re matched with notes of clove and tobacco. I also picked up a flavor that reminded me of sweet BBQ sauce and charcoal, which I love. A hint of toast and pepper on the finish. A, juicy wine with lots of personality and deliciousness. A blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache. (90 points IJB)

2010 Fess Parker The Big Easy
California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $35
The dark plum and blackberry aromas smell roasted and sweet, and there are also aromas of tar and rich potting soil. Rich and extracted on the palate, the blackberry and blueberry fruit comes in waves. Supported by medium acid and fine tannins, this fruit-bomb also shows notes of fig paste, mocha and toasted oak. After ten minutes, just a hint of black olive comes out. Hedonistic, not much subtlety here, but up there on the delicious scale. Could use a year or two. I chuckled when I unveiled this wine and saw it was named “The Big Easy” because that name perfectly sums up this wine’s worldview. A solid blend of 66% Syrah, 19% Petite Sirah and 15% Grenache. (88 points IJB)

2010 Fess Parker Syrah Rodney’s Vineyard
California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $49
Lush aromas of blackberries and blueberries, caramel and charcoal. Palate is full and rich with mixed berries, but there’s just enough acid and some fine tannins, so it all works together. Dark and smoky as well, with mocha, coffee, charcoal and carmelized sugar notes. A bold, bombastic wine, but the purity of flavors and the seamlessness of the wine make it irresistible. Could benefit from a long decant or a few years in the cellar. (89 points)

2010 Fields Family Wines Syrah Estate
California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $22
Dark and sweet on the nose, like raspberry jam and plum cake mixed in with an earthy-smoky note. Bright plum and raspberry fruit on the palate with velvety tannins. A ripe, soft and easy-drinking approach. The toasted coconut and creamy oak is actually integrated quite well. An unashamedly fun wine that I cannot help buy enjoy. (88 points IJB)

2009 Azari Winery Syrah Corkscrew
California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $19
Smells of wild blueberry jam, plum skins, also some chocolate shavings and spiced coffee. Full and plush feeling on the palate, with fine-grain tannins. The acid is present to balance the rich plum and blueberry fruit. These white pepper and spiced coffee notes are woven throughout, and I’m really liking it. Big, yet elegant and deep, and capable of at least a few years in the cellar. It seems like it could unwind and develop some more nuance. (90 points IJB)

2008 Azari Winery Shiraz
California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $60
Aromas of plum sauce, the juiciest blackberries, along with notes of kalamata olives. The palate shows fine tannins, medi­um acid and loads of juicy blackberry fruit and plum fruit. Bold but still restrained, and I love the secondary flavors of potting soil, sweet cola and peppered steak laced throughout. A note of coffee on the long finish. A very nice example of Sonoma Coast syrah. I know it’s more expensive than the Azari 2009 Corkscrew Syrah, but, in my opinion, this didn’t have the level of depth or complexity. (88 points IJB)

Michael McNeill.

Each week, as regular readers know, we pose a series of questions to a winemaker. This week, we’re featuring Michael McNeill, director of winemaking at Hanzell Vineyards in Sonoma. 

McNeill’s winemaking career began shortly after graduating from California Polytechnic University with a degree in chemistry. Inspired by a book on home winemaking, McNeill secured a harvest internship at R.H. Phillips, the now defunct winery in California’s Dunnigan Hills AVA. Within months, he became the winery’s research enologist, a job he held for two years before moving to Chalone Vineyard.

McNeill spent six years at Chalone, eventually becoming the property’s assistant winemaker. From there, he moved to a number of wineries and also spent some time in Burgundy, doing stints at Silvan Ridge Winery in the Willamette Valley; Savannah-Chanelle Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains; and Keller Estate Winery on the Sonoma Coast. In 2008, he landed at Hanzell Vineyards.

Check out our interview with Michael below the fold. Read the rest of this entry »

In the Wine Cellar Insider, Jefe Leve sets “the record straight on the recent reporting of the potential commercialization on Robert Parker.” 

Flickr, Sam Howzit.

“Labels on wine can become just a bit less confusing, and more forthright, in the future.” On his blog, Jon Bonné comments on “the real issues behind wine labels.”

In the San Francisco Chronicle, Stacy Finz writes about the wine industry’s squeamishness “over new federal guidelines [giving] alcoholic beverage companies the ability to label their bottles voluntarily with nutrition facts.”

In Wine-Searcher, Rebecca Gibb talks to Charles Banks about “Life After Screaming Eagle.”

“What if Jesus had turned water into a nice gin rickey?” The HoseMaster asks a number of thought-provoking questions.

Food & Wine offers “A Guide to the Best New Wine Shops.”

“Can one actually open a restaurant in New York on Kickstarter funds alone?” Lettie Teague poses this question to Jennifer Vitagliano, the owner of a New Zealand-centric restaurant that just opened.

“After eight years of deadlock, the plan to convert [154 acres] of abandoned industrial property on the Napa River into a ‘mixed use’ residential and commercial community was approved on Tuesday by Napa County.” On Decanter.com, Courtney Humiston has the details.

Ever wanted to shotgun a glass of Merlot? Canned wine is on its way.

Christiane Amanpour chats with Mike Veseth about the global fine wine market.

In her new home, Jennifer Aniston has a 1,600 sq ft wine cellar. That’s larger than my entire house! 

Virginia Wine Time visits Virginia’s “Little Burgundy,” better known as Ankida Ridge.

If a wine geek had carte blanche to create the restaurant of his dreams, he’d save himself a lot of time by simply replicating Pearl & Ash in New York City. It’s been nearly a week since I dined there, and thinking back to that evening still makes me giddy.

Last Thursday, I headed up to New York City to join fellow Terroirist Rebecca Canan and the graduating wine team at Columbia Business School to dine with Jean-Louis Carbonnier of Chateau Palmer at Le Périgord. Once that dinner was on the books, I decided to extend my trip so I could check out Pearl & Ash on Friday evening.

The reason? Well, consider the opening paragraph of Pete Wells’ restaurant review in the New York Times:

“Going to Pearl & Ash without opening a bottle or two is like buying a chocolate bar and not unwrapping it. Since it opened in February, the restaurant has become the city’s most exciting place to drink wine. Some nights the dining room is so packed with grape chasers, it’s as if a Bat Signal in the shape of a corkscrew were shining over the Bowery.”

Or check out Levi Dalton’s interview with Pearl & Ash wine director Patrick Cappiello. Or check out Patrick Cappiello’s Instagram feed, which is typically packed with photos of silly wines. Or just look at the wine list.

The hype is real.

Our group of four started with the 2010 Jérôme Prévost La Closerie “Les Beguines.”

Although Prévost has a cult following among Champagne obsessives, I’d never tasted his wines before. Prévost owns five acres of Pinot Meunier in the village of Gueux, which lies on the edge of the Mountain de Reims. From this tiny parcel, he produces one wine each year — and disgorges the wine 18 months after bottling and finishes it without any dosage.

Prévost’s current release is from 2010, and if you can find it, his wine will easily set you back $110. At Pearl & Ash, it’s on the list for an eminently reasonable $145. In a word, it was delicious.

After the Champagne, we moved onto Hervé Souhaut’s 2011 “La Souteronne.”

Whereas Jérôme Prévost is the darling of Champagne geeks everywhere, those who obsess about natural wine are in love with Hervé Souhaut. He eschews any intervention aside from a small amount of sulfur and works with 12 acres of vines — all between 50 and 100 years old — on the right bank of the Rhône Valley, just outside Hermitage.

The most exciting wine he produces is “La Souteronne,” which is 100% Gamay. The nose is absolutely intoxicating, full of ripe, buoyant Gamay fruit backed by savory minerality.

This wine, too, is virtually impossible to find. And if you can find it, it’ll set you back $30. At Pearl & Ash, it was just $45. In two words, the Sauhaut was “so hot.”

After the Gamay, we decided to splurge and order Jean Grivot’s 1996 Échezeaux.

This wine needs no introduction. Échezeaux, of course, is both a Burgundy AOC and a Grand Cru vineyard. And Domaine Jean Grivot is widely regarded as one of the top producers in Burgundy.

Patrick assured us that the wine was open for business, and it delivered. It was an extraordinary experience. So much depth, so much elegance, silky, and just plain yummy.

The price? $300. This wine literally can’t be found at a single U.S. retailer. If you visit Hong Kong, though, you can find it for $334.

At this point, the meal was over, so we headed to the bar for one more bottle.

We were itching for some Bordeaux so asked Patrick for advice. He suggested the 1990 Château Clerc Milon, on the list for $180. A 23-year-old, perfectly cellared Bordeaux for less than $200 seemed like quite a deal, so we went for it. Especially because Patrick assured us that the wine was singing.

It, too, delivered. While the nose was initially obscured by brettanomyces (manifesting as dirty socks), it quickly opened up and offered all the delicious, sultry notes that can only be found in aged Bordeaux.

As we prepared to leave, Patrick came to the bar with a parting gift — a glass of 1976 Château Coutet (Barsac). Just like the rest of the evening, the wine was amazing.

It’d be a disservice to Pearl & Ash — and Richard Kuo, the restaurant’s chef — to overlook the food. From the pork meatballs and the octopus to the skate, quail, and lamb belly, all the dishes our table enjoyed were complex, balanced, and absolutely fantastic.

I can’t wait to go back. 

Uploaded to flickr by winestem.

“No photo was available of the five-packs, so we run one of KISS, who similarly cashed in on autographed items.” Dr. Vino chimes in on the news that a Bordeaux negoticiant will be selling 600 cases of wines signed by Robert Parker. 

“Instead of following the garish American trend of prioritizing a wine producer’s name, or the name of the grape varieties, Dees wants the appellation to stand out. It’s the old European model; think of a bottle of Morgon, or Cornas, or Volnay.” In Palate Press, Evan Dawson reports on Goodland Wines, an exciting new project in Santa Barbara County. 

In response, Tom Wark thinks “confusion will be sparked before debate.” 

“Today, a new wave of Champagne growers is shaking up the old order by making their own wines, and in so doing, may indelibly broaden the definition of bubbly.” Time covers the rising popularity of Grower Champagne!  

“When I got here I discovered how fabulous Riesling was.” On Decanter.com, Kyle Schlachter chats with Scott Osborn of Fox Run Vineyards in the Finger Lakes.  

“Marketing wine as a generic foodstuff and a glamorous aspirational good can and does happen.” Meanwhile, on his blog, Kyle Schlachter writes about a recent debate on twitter about the value of marketing wine as a food. 

Wine bloggers are pouring into Penticton. (Not this one, sadly!) 

“We have the climate, the land and the expertise after 40 years to produce truly beautiful bottles of wine that exhibit subtle difference in terroir across the AVAs of the state.” In Appellation America, Richard Leahy writes about “the real potential” that can be found in Virginia.  

“I can taste greater variation in wines from two of my Rhône producers making wine a few kilometers from one another in the same appellation than I could in most of the Languedoc AOC wines I tried on the trip.” Tom Natan offers some brutally honest impressions from a recent trip to the Languedoc.

In the Santa Barbara Independent, Matt Kettmann profiles “Gavin Chanin, Wine-World Wonder Boy.”

I wasn't at this tasting. Flickr, Norman27.

“Despite the permanence of terroir itself, wine greatness today is now transient in a way that it never was before.” Matt Kramer looks for “today’s classics.”

“After sampling over two dozen B.C. wines and getting a sense of the (very limited) wine culture of British Columbia… [I concluded that] there was really nothing compelling enough about the region or its wines to lead me to want to spend a significant amount of money and time to learn much more about them.” Richard Jennings writes a passionate (and lengthy) post explaining why he isn’t attending this year’s Wine Bloggers Conference.   

“Chateau Montelena, which achieved the top white wine award [at the Judgment of Paris]… purchased 85% of its grapes from Sonoma County. Of these, large percentages were from the Bacigalupi Vineyard in the Russian River AVA.” In Wine Business Monthly, Dr. Liz Thach, MW writes a fascinating piece on the Bacigalupi vineyard and California’s historic vines. 

“I’m optimistic about this project (as I am about the future of Virginia wine more generally), but I think everyone agrees that it is still early days.” Mike Veseth visits Early Mountain Vineyards. 

“Chateau Le Pin: 81 points. Ridge Vineyards Cabernet: 75 points. Heitz Chardonnay: 55 points.” W. Blake Gray takes a quick look at Robert Parker’s grade inflation.

The Drinks Business reports on Moët Hennessy’s “ambitious timetable for its new Indian and Chinese wine projects.”

Alder Yarrow attends Auction Napa Valley.

In Wine Enthusiast, Virginie Boone offers a “guide to Napa City… that’ll have you imbibing and noshing from morning ’til late night.”

On WineSpectator.com, Jacob Gaffney reports: “A new study provides good news for breast cancer survivors — there is no need to give up wine.”