Daily Wine News: Transitional Season

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-10-2013

From Wikimedia Commons.

“Spring is a transitional season for wines. In the end, weight, not color, is the crucial factor in selecting bottles.” In the New York Times, Eric Asimov suggests “20 Great Spring Wines.”

In the Washingtonian, Jessica Voelker solicits mother’s day wine advice from four local wine geeks. I’m one of them! 

In the Wall Street Journal, Lettie Teague Visits the Yale Law School wine team. 

Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka previews the Seven Percent Solution tasting, coming up this weekend in Healdsburg. It’s sounds incredible! (More details here.) 

The California Assembly has passed a resolution noting that “historic vineyards are beautiful and treasured survivors.” Wines & Vines has the details. 

“Until recently, serious restaurants in the United States were owned by celebrity chefs, creative developers… or corporate chains. But sommeliers have now begun taking the lead role.” In Shanken News Daily, a great article in the rising number of “celebrity” sommeliers and the restaurants they’re opening. 

Meanwhile, in Wine-Searcher, Tyler Colman chats with superstar sommelier Alpana Singh, co-owner of The Boarding House in Chicago. 

“A woman who has had a team assistant try to push her out of a room while naked men hurled insults wasn’t going to be fazed by a disagreement over strawberry wine.” Elsewhere in Wine-Searcher, W. Blake Gray writes a great profile of wine writer Linda Murphy, co-author (with Jancis Robinson) of American Wine.  

For 24 hours last October, the entire wine cellar at Fort Defiance, a restaurant-bar in Red Hook, Brooklyn, sat under water. So the restaurant decided to open all the bottles, at once, for adventurous oenophiles. In the New York Times, Robert Simonson tells the story. 

In Slave to the Grape, Mick Cameron sits down with Boris Champy of Domaine Louis Latour. 

“By the time owner Alfred Tesseron went onstage with a double-magnum of his Pontet-Canet 2010, valued at $1,200, bidders chased it to $6,000.” Wine Spectator covers the “charity extravaganza” known as Heart’s Delight. 

Panos Kakaviatos visits one of the top wineries in Alsace, Albert Mann. 

Robert Parker is now reviewing bourbon. On the 100-point scale. Retailers like K&L are giddyBloggers, though… (H/T: Clay Risen.) 

Right now, Austrian Wine is running a contest on Facebook and Twitter asking people to show off their “Grüner spot.” No details on the prizes, but the contest sounds fun!

Daily Wine News: Talking To Ourselves

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-08-2013

U.S. prosecutors have won permission to videotape the testimony of Aubert de Villaine, Christophe Roumier, and Laurent Ponsot in their trial against Rudy Kurniawan.  

“We are talking to ourselves.” Charles Olken contends (correctly, I suspect) that most wine blog readers are “other bloggers and wine industry professionals.” 

“I do love buying and drinking wine. But I also love researching, weighing, sifting, winnowing and so forth. Is it any surprise that I… love Burgundy above all other wines?” Matt Kramer writes about the many different types of wine lovers. 

“On the east coast, and in the rest of the country, it’s a lesson on how to turn a local winery into a regional powerhouse.” Carlo De Vito writes a wonderful essay on Maryland’s Boordy Vineyards and the impact it’s had on mid-Atlantic wine. 

In First We Feast, Jonathan Cristaldi chats with Bar Boulud’s Michael Madrigale about “post-college parties, Lou Reed, and tweeting about jeroboams.” 

“Wine’s sixth genre can almost seem like a liquid food, not a wine at all.” In Decanter, Andrew Jefford discovers Georgia’s most fascinating wines 

In the Oregonian, Katherine Cole explains how “Shea became the choice Pinot vineyard.” 

“Roy Moorfield and Lau Chi-sun are in charge of one of Cathay Pacific’s most rigorous selection processes. Last week 140 candidates were brought before them and evaluated by appearance, body, character and even how bitter they are.” CNN covers Cathay Pacific’s rigorous process of selecting wines. 

“After dinner: Go. To. Bed. That last round — or two, or three — isn’t ending up anywhere good tomorrow.” In Fortune, John Kapon of Acker Merrall & Condit offers some travel advice. 

In Eater Denver, Andra Zeppelin chats with Matthew Mather, the sommelier at Frasca, about “wine, mentors, and advice for wine lovers.” 

Aaron Nix-Gomez is impressed with Dirty & Rowdy”s 2011 Mourvedre. 

And finally, “26 Reasons Kids Are Pretty Much Just Tiny Drunk Adults.”

Daily Wine News: Yeah, Science!

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-07-2013

“Three glasses of champagne a week ‘can improve your memory.’” It’s science! (More here.)

“For a wine with genuine aging potential, one should look no further than vintage port, which will quite happily go on improving for 50 years or more.” Will Lyons writes a primer on vintage Port and praises the wines of 2011. 

“My observations… suggest that Bordeaux is favored by importers, traders, and speculators more than by consumers. Bordeaux’s success in China over the past five to seven years is built upon excessive optimism that is not backed up by consumer preferences and consumption trends.” In her first column for Wine-Searcher, Jeannie Cho Lee MW casts a skeptical eye over the Chinese wine market. 

Moet-Hennessy has announced plans for a new sparkling wine project – in the Nashik region northeast of Mumbai!

On the blog for the Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wine, Stephen Eliot explains how he and Charles Olken continue remain enthusiastic about their jobs “after so many wines and so many years.” 

After tasting the the 2011 Massican Annia, “an exceptionally interesting and tasty blend of Tocai Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, and Chardonnay,” Kyle Schlachter ponders how important it is for wine regions to have “a signature variety.” 

“There isn’t volume at Copain; but there is artistry. Don’t miss it.” In the Newark Star Ledger, John Foy praises the wines of Wells Guthrie. 

Fredric Koeppel profiles Tablas Creek and tastes through the winery’s latest releases. 

Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka and Hardy Wallace write about a party they threw this weekend, #Semageddon. Tom Wark confirms that it was awesome. 

In Outside, Eva Holland explores whether beer attracts bears. With camping season just getting started, it’s an important question! (H/T: Jeff Gordinier.)

Daily Wine News: Outpouring of Passion

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-06-2013

Mike Steinberger has picked up a James Beard award for his Vanity Fair article on Rudy Kurniawan. 

“Who would guess that a winemaking consultant — even the world’s most famous one — had the power to provoke such an outpouring of passion, not to mention a purported ability to destroy a Bordeaux estate?” In the Wall Street Journal, Lettie Teague explains “what winemaking consultants really do.” 

Elsewhere, Teague visits a new wine shop in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. 

“Albariño has become as much a brand name for Spanish whites as pinot grigio has for Italian.” The New York Times’ tasting panel tastes through a number of Spanish Albariños. 

“The move to wine is an attempt to make more money where produce farms are no longer profitable.” Elsewhere in the New York Times, Kate Zernike explores New Jersey wine country. 

“More than 100 wines a day for five days and a lot of time traveling from place to place, so some of the tastings are a blur. Not the one at the Abbaye de Valmagne, though. It’s hard to forget a winery that’s partly inside a 13th century church.” Tom Natan profiles a stunning winery he visited in the Languedoc. 

Steve Heimoff explores whether terroir or technique is “more important for fine wine.” 

In the Boston Globe, Patricia Harris and David Lyon visit “the next wine frontier: British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley.” 

Throughout the Cote-d’Or and Chablis, torrential downpours caused floods over the weekend, completely submerging some vineyards. 

Instead of talking to friends about his “favorite” wine, Allen Balik prefers to tell folks about his most memorable wines.

Jeff Siegel chats with wine writer Dave Falchek.

Weekly Interview: Gary Warburton

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-03-2013

Each week, as regular readers know, we pose a series of questions to a winemaker. This week, we’re featuring Gary Warburton from Napa Valley’s Phifer Pavitt.

A California native, Gary spent most of his winemaking career as a hobbyist. His first efforts were in southern California, where his friends owned a small winery. The work inspired Gary to begin making his own wines, but for 15 years, he was simply a garagiste – making wine at home, mainly for family and friends. By day, Gary worked as a dentist. 

In 2001, Gary’s son, Shane, purchased 23 acres of land in Napa Valley together with his wife Suzanne. They hoped to one day turn their property into a vineyard – but quickly began making wine with purchased fruit. 

That’s when Gary decided to start taking weekend viticulture classes at U.C. Davis to pursue a degree in enology. Today, Gary assists Pfiger Pavitt’s head winemaker, Ted Osborne, and oversees the entire production of Phifer Pavitt’s Sauvignon Blanc. 

Check out our interview with Gary below the fold.  Read the rest of this entry »

Daily Wine News: Safe House

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-03-2013

From Wikipedia.

“Burgundy. We convinced the infidels that the wines of Burgundy were the true wines of pleasure.” Mike Steinberger receives a top-secret transcript from an al-Qaeda safe house in Waziristan.

“When I’m not working or if I’m just relaxing with a book, it’s always with a beer, it’s never with a glass of wine.” David Coggins sits down with superstar sommelier Carla Rzeszewski. (H/T: Eric Asimov.)

“These industry professionals, along with many consumers, have gone in pursuit of wines that are more nuanced, less alcoholic, and, some would contend, more balanced. It is the use of this last term that has many in the wine world up in arms.” Thomas Riley looks at both sides of the “balance” debate. 

“Tasting these wines I could feel how different they are from the typical Napa wine. These are made to showcase the juice from the grapes grown on their hillside vines, and the soils they come from. Nothing more, nothing less.” The Brooklyn Guy visits Stony Hill Vineyard.

“The first time I met Randall Grahm, he began discussing chi within a few minutes of my arrival.” Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka spends some time with the original Rhone ranger, Randall Grahm.

“I know that feeling, that sense of adventure and discovery at the thought of trying new wines and some of the best in the world.” That’s a feeling Tim Fish never wants to lose.

Chuck Hayward offers some tips on where to wine and dine in Bordeaux.

Just in time for grilling season, Fred Swan recommends several California Petite Sirahs.

William Allen welcomes a new writer to Simple Hedonisms.

Shanken News Daily chats with Francesca Schuler, the chief marketing officer of BevMo, to discuss her company’s growth. 

From Serious Eats, “25 essential cocktails everyone should know.”

Daily Wine News: Celebrity Wine

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-02-2013

Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka visits Steve and Jill Matthiasson’s Ribolla Gialla vineyard.

“Argentina is justly known for its Malbec,” but recently, Dave McIntyre has found himself “pining for Argentina’s Chardonnay.”

In Wine Enthusiast, Steve Heimoff chats with Charles Banks about his acquisition of Mayacamas Vineyards.

“Wine is one of those things that bring sensual, intellectual and social pleasure to human beings.” Tom Wark defends his vocation.

“To remind the region and the world that Paso is and can be a premiere place for Bourdeauxs, a number of wineries recently formed the CAB Collective.” The Santa Barbara Independent covers Paso Robles’ rediscovery of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Meanwhile, in Wines & Vines, Jim Gordon explores what distinguishes Paso Robles Cabernet.

Jeremy Parzen tries to make sense of the soap opera that is Brunello di Montalcino. (H/T: Eric Asimov.) 

“There is something super convivial about drinking Burgundy.” James Suckling attends Hong Kong’s “Petite Paulee.” 

“They’re not bargains, but neither is that Rum-Splashed Absinthe Forget-Me-Not you’ve been nursing for six years.” In Bloomberg, James Tarmy urges his readers to drink Sauternes. 

“Fancy having Brangelina, Drew Barrymore and Dan Aykroyd over for dinner? No problem, they’ll even bring the wine. OK, maybe the stars themselves won’t show up, but their wines will appear with just a wave of a credit card.” The Associated Press reports on the surge in celebrity wines.

Daily Wine News: Tastemakers

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-01-2013

Wine Enthusiast names 40 tastemakers under 40 “who are changing the way the world drinks.” Big congratulations to Jasmine Hirsch, Hardy Wallace, and everyone else who made the list!

“The Highway 12 corridor, a ribbon through the core of Sonoma Valley, tells the story of California’s life in vine.” From Jon Bonné, a great essay on the history — and future — of Sonoma.

Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka tastes through 25 examples of North American Pinot Noir that offer vibrancy, tension, and acidity.  

Wine Business reports that “the historic Mayacamas Vineyards, located near the top of Mount Veeder in the Napa Valley, has been acquired by Charles and Ali Banks. Tyler Colman has more. 

“The proceeds from this sale will be reinvested in more modest wines, and the excess will be returned to the state budget.” On Tuesday, the official residence of French president François Hollandehe announced plans to auction off 1,200 bottles of its finest wines, representing about 10 percent of the cellar.  

“It seems counterintuitive for companies to take their employees somewhere where the alcohol begins to flow even before lunch is served. But wineries around the world are increasingly accommodating businesses asking for meeting space, catering and even wine-making lessons for their workers.” From the New York Times, “a sampler of vineyards offering corporate retreats.” 

“There’s no escaping the fact that California continues to be basically a chocolate-vanilla-strawberry state when it comes to red and white wine. And that’s a situation unlikely to change anytime soon.” Steve Heimoff takes a close look at the 2012 California Grape Acreage Report. 

In Eater Austin, Andrea Grimes offers some post Austin Food & Wine Fest observations.  

Carey Sweet reports that “Foodshed [is] taking over Francis Ford Coppola’s former Napa restaurant.”

Daily Wine News: British Fizz Boom

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 04-30-2013

The British trade publication Restaurant Magazine releases its annual list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. At the top? El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain. (Eleven Madison Park took the top U.S. slot, coming in at number five.)

“Blessed with soil similar to France’s Champagne region, vineyards in England nevertheless produced decades of low-grade goop that caused nary a Frenchman to tremble.” In the Washington Post, Anthony Faiola writes about the “Great British fizz boom.” 

“The winemakers who tried to ape the powerful style of the 2010s — and there were many — made wines that taste hollow, bitter, and unbalanced.” Elin McCoy offers her thoughts on Bordeaux’s 2012 vintage. 

“Millennials want wines that are authentic, that are unique expressions of interesting varieties grown by dedicated vintners who spare no labor or expense, who love the land and cherish the Earth and all its resources, who never, they swear to God, never manipulate the wines, who we feel a connection to because of their story so we want to support them, and, finally, the wines are also delicious and compelling, get you drunk, and don’t cost more than $15. Fucking simple.” On the HoseMaster of Wine, Lo Hai Qu explains what millennials want from wine. 

Over at Thinking-Drinking, Erin Scala chases Elizabeth Bird, New York City’s first female sommelier. (H/T: Eric Asimov.)  

In Wine-Searcher, Maureen Downey explains how to get the best results from selling your collection. 

From Maggie Hoffman, “7 Great California Rosés You Should Be Drinking Now.” Meanwhile, in the Star Tribune, Bill Ward works through an array of rosé. 

On New York Cork Report, Will Donbavand provides an update on how New York wine sales are faring in the United Kingdom. (In case you missed it, check out Lenn Thompson’s introduction of Will Donbavand.) 

In the Chicago Tribune, Bill St. John offers “short descriptions of the wines of the 10 Beaujolais crus, in an optional tasting lineup from lightest to heaviest.” 

“Lindquist bought tickets to a Kinks show — and when his boss wouldn’t give him the night off, he went anyway and got fired.” In the San Jose Mercury News, Laurie Daniel profiles Bob Lindquist, the founder of Qupé. 

“While women tend to be the buyers of wine, it is predominantly men who amass the large, ostentatious collections of old, rare, collectible, and expensive wines.” Tom Wark pivots off Judith Dobrzynski’s New York Times op-ed to comment about men and wine collecting. 

Panos Kakaviatos attends a magnificent tasting of wines from the Barossa.

Daily Wine News: Simpler Wine

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 04-29-2013

From Wikipedia.

“Outside the rarefied world of wine tastings, small specialist wine shops and the fine-wine market the message is clear: the average consumer just wants wine made simpler.” In the Wall Street Journal Europe, Will Lyons writes a much-needed appeal to regular wine consumers.

“Sauternes is one of the greatest white wine terroirs in the world, for sweet or dry wine, [but] what the market wants now is dry wine.” In the International Herald Tribune, Eric Pfanner laments the declining popularity of Sauternes. 

J.J. Buckley releases a preview of its forthcoming 2012 Bordeaux report. 

In Wine-Searcher, W. Blake Gray profiles Yannis Voyatzis, “the man who made Santorini wines what they are today.” 

Aaron Nix-Gomez makes a fascinating historical discovery! In the Colony of Virginia, the first wine was likely produced by the  Popham Colony in 1607 — earlier than winemaking efforts in Jamestown, which was thought to produce the first wine in Virginia. 

“The grape’s fortunes are on an upswing; there’s more interest now than in nearly a generation, perhaps, in discussing it as an important part of California’s past and present.” Jon Bonné tastes his way through some Sonoma Zinfandel. Meanwhile, on his blog, Bonné ponders the grape’s future. 

“Why no glossy magazine features, no fashion spreads featuring him pontificating on Pinot Noir while wearing an Armani suit?” In the Wall Street Journal, Lettie Teague profiles Joshua Nadel, who directs the wine program’s at New York’s Locanda Verde, The Dutch, and the Lafayette. 

Elsewhere, Teague explains why everyone loves Sancerre.

In Wine Review Online, Rebecca Murphy writes about Tim Hanni’s “quest to understand taste physiology and how it affects our wine and food choices.”

If you haven’t seen it yet, be sure to check out the 2013 Direct-to-Consumer Shipping Report – it’s full of some fascinating data. (Free, but registration is required. Highlights here.)

“When visiting a winery, it’s very much about the wine, but it’s also about making the tasting experience memorable.” In Washington Wine Report, Ryan Messer explains why “the most important thing in the tasting room isn’t always the wine.”