This week, we have three wines from South Africa and three wines from Chile. All were received as trade samples and tasted blind.

South Africa

2012 De Morgenzon Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé DMZ
South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
SRP: $15
Bright salmon-pink color. Wow, smells like strawberry bushes covered with white flowers and cracked pepper. Tangy, spritzy, full of fresh watermelon, tangy cherry, white flowers, red apple peel. Notes of pepper and mineral add complexity. The verve of this wine is awesome. Notes of yellow onion? A great bottle to serve with the salads and seafood of summer. (88 points IJB)

2009 De Toren Z
South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
SRP: $26
Aromas of dark roasted coffee, crushed blackberry, hint of tart cranberry, dried leaves and soil as well. On the palate, firm tannins and wonderfully fresh acid. Interesting mix of fresh blackberries and cranberries, hints of roasted coffee and a hazelnut-toast aspect lingers on the finish. Well-played oak doesn’t overpower the pure fruit flavors. I love the hint of chewing tobacco, smoke and tilled soil on the finish. Very focused, but still very young and capable of cellaring for three-to-five easily. A Bordeaux style blend of 56% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec and a 2% shot of Petit Verdot. (90 points IJB)

2010 De Toren Fusion V
South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
SRP: $45
The nose… where to start? Plum cake, fig, currant jam, cedar, pine needles, mocha. Wow. Tart acid on the palate, firm tannins, and generous fruit. Plums and currants mix with earth and cedar and black olive. This is granite-structured, but the acid is wonderful. The notes of bay leaf and potting soil pay homage to the Old World, but the fruit has such richness. Aged 12 months in 50% new oak, but the toast and mocha flavors are extremely well-integrated. This wine is showing wonderfully now, but it’s a big one that will be even more interesting in five or eight years. A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 13% Malbec, 11% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. (93 points IJB)

Chile

2009 Emiliana Cabernet Sauvignon Novas Gran Reserva
Chile, Maipo Valley
SRP: $14
Aromas of roasted plum, blackberry jam, charcoal and a note that reminds me of Cognac. Tart on the palate, with snappy red cherries and blackberries. Notes of caramel, mocha, cellar dust and toasted oak as well. A flavor of brandied plums and charcoal lingers onto the finish. The alcohol and oak might be overdone, but it’s still quite pleasant. (86 points IJB)

2010 Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva de Familia
Chile, Maipo Valley
SRP: $16
Tight nose of mocha, cedar and black currants. A young, compact wine with dense tannins, almost bitter like green coffee. Dark fruit dominates, black cherry, black currant, along with flavors of ground coffee, charcoal and mocha. Big, toasty oak and chocolate shavings linger on the finish. A little low on acid. This is a very tightly-wound wine that could probably use a good decant or a year to settle down. (86 points IJB)

2009 Tabalí Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva
Chile, Limarí Valley
SRP: $20
This wine smells of raspberry jam, red licorice, chewing tobacco and charred toast. Grippy tannins provide lots of structure, but it’s slightly low on the acid. The flavors of red plums and raspberries and rich and juicy, and it’s all backed up by toasty oak, campfire and hints of green pepper. Nicely wrapped together with a solid finish. (87 points IJB)

There are few white wines I’ve found that are as compelling, complex, and consistently outstanding as Franz Hirtzberger’s Rieslings from the Singerriedel vineyard in the Wachau.

For aromatic depth, finesse, and its propensity to age gracefully, Hirtzberger’s Singerriedel stands among the elite expressions of dry Riesling, alongside the top Grosses Gewächse from producers such as Dönnhoff or Klaus-Peter Keller, Trimbach’s Clos Ste. Hune, or other great dry Austrian Rieslings such as FX Pichler’s Kellerberg.

The Singerriedel vineyard is a terraced vineyard in the town of Spitz along the Wachau. Another vintner with plots in the Singerriedel, Franz Joseph Gritsch, has spoken before about the challenges harvesting it — harvesting is only possible by hand, as tractors cannot be used on the steep gradient.

There’s little ‘earth’ in the vineyard, but rather many varieties of stone including gneiss, mica and schist. The slope and terracing of the vineyard allow for all the Riesling vines to enjoy great exposure to sunlight, and Hirtzberger’s wines from this vineyard always manage to come across with a sensation of high ripeness and concentration even in cooler years, while at the same time conveying a finesse and elegance found in few other dry Rieslings.

Though the wines are rarely cheap, they’re some of the most thrilling and age-worthy white wines I’ve had the pleasure to enjoy, with powerful, ripe fruit and florality in their youth, and more savoury, complex and mineral flavours developing with time in bottle.

Tasting notes follow below the fold.

Read the rest of this entry »

Moët Hennessy is a beverage industry behemoth. Besides the luxury brands in its name (Moët & Chandon Champagne, Hennessy Cognac) the company’s brands include the Champagnes of Veuve Clicquot, Ruinart, Dom Pérignon and Krug. Not to mention Grand Marnier, Ardbeg and Glenmorangie Scotch, and a handful of wineries in Spain and Argentina. 

So I was obviously excited when I got invited to a Moët Hennessy USA tasting at the Graham Georgetown Hotel in Washington, DC. The tasting was led by Seth Box, Moët Hennessy USA’s director of education, and a Master of Wine student. Mr. Box’s knowledge of Champagne is extensive, and his passion for wine is addictive. 

A few dozen people from the DC-area wine community gathered in the cozy bar on the hotel’s ground level as Mr. Box and other Moët reps poured glass after glass of incredible (and justifiably expensive) Champagne. We talked about the masters behind the winemaking, the process of aging Champagne, and why any serious wine collector should consider stashing away some of these beautiful bubbles. 

As readers of this blog may know, I taste a lot of wine. However, it’s a rare event where I consistently freak out over the quality and distinctiveness of this many wines. Here are my notes on a palate-pleasing night. 

2004 Moët & Chandon Champagne Grand Vintage Brut
France, Champagne
Floral on the nose, with lots of mixed nuts, lemon cake and yellow apple. Crisp acid, full body, flavors of nougat, lemon, yellow apple. Long finish with notes of honeyed tea. Nice way to start of the evening. A blend of 38% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir and 29% Pinot Meunier. (89 points IJB)

1992 Moët & Chandon Champagne Grand Vintage Brut
France, Champagne
Showing those beautiful aged aromas of hazelnut, boiled peanuts, apricots and yellow flowers. Crisp acid, fine bubbles, this mineral-driven Champagne also shows lots of lemon peel, honeydew melon, sweet tart candies and honeycomb flavors. Very elegant and sleek, with a long, nutty finish. Drinking incredibly well now, but these bubbles aren’t done evolving yet. (91 points IJB)

2002 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Rosé
France, Champagne
Salmon-pink color. Aromatic bliss: watermelon, juicy strawberries, white cherry, potpourri. The aromas shift and change with every sniff. Intensely young on the palate, with sharp acid. Juicy watermelon and strawberry fruit is accentuated by notes of biscuit, tons of minerals and a flavor that reminds me of sage. This is a stunning rose Champagne, but I got a sense that this has much more to show as it opens up over the next five or ten years. (94 points IJB)

1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque
France, Champagne
Intoxicating aromas of lemon cake, buttered croissant, yellow apple, honeydew, dried white flowers… and the aromas just keep going. Rich on the palate, with green apple and melon fruit, buttered toast and dried honey, but this wine maintains so much focus and precision. The minerality in this wine is astounding, same goes for the acid, which never ceases. Such dramatic tension between the lean and rich aspects. Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy has made a masterpiece with this wine. If I had a bottle of this, I’d put it down with a cellar tag that reads “Do not open until apocalypse.” (96 points IJB)

2000 Krug Champagne Brut
France, Champagne
Years of studying wine, tasting wine, collecting and storing it, sometimes you forget what it is about wine that drives a person to dedicate so much time, money and effort. Then a wine like this comes along and floors you, leaves you in complete awe, and reminds you that life is fucking awesome. This Krug shows a beautiful golden apple color. A collage of rich and intense aromas: fresh biscuits, apricot, hazelnut, honey, caramel, shortbread cookies, the aromas don’t quit. Dense and bold on the palate, but balanced by superb acid. Rich themes of apricot, hazelnut, honeycomb, caramel, Fuji apple, but they’re contrasted with intense limestone and quinine flavors. Full and hedonistic, yet sleek and elegant, this Champagne is a beautiful contradiction. 43% Chardonnay, 42% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier. I’d love to taste another bottle of this again when I’m old and crotchety. (98 points IJB)

N.V. Krug Champagne Brut Rosé
France, Champagne
Pretty copper-rose color. Aromas of white cherries, McIntosh apples and lots of seashell, saline and ocean jetty rock aromas. Brisk acid, this wine is both powerful and effortlessly beautiful. The palate is full of juicy watermelon, apple and strawberry, highlighted by peanut shell, sea salt and lemon zest. A stunning rosé Champagne. Go Krug! (95 points IJB)

1989 Krug Champagne Brut Collection
France, Champagne
One of those wines you taste and think, “Man, I am so lucky.” Intriguing apricot-honey color. Smells waxy and honeyed, with orange marmalade, clover honey, dried flowers, bruised apples. The palate loaded with gobs of apricot, brandied pear and blood orange. Crisp acid keeps it lean and balanced, and the aged notes of mixed nuts, rose tea, truffle oil and dried mushrooms. Throughout, this wine maintains an oceanic aura, with seashells and mineral water. So complex, this wine’s finish is obscenely long. One of the most intellectually stimulating Champagnes I’ve ever had the pleasure of drinking. (97 points IJB)

Smiles all around from the crew at the daily wine blog Terroirist. Left to right: Isaac James Baker, David White (founder and editor), Scott Claffee, Sarah Hexter.

Birk O'Halloran pouring for Alex Zalbenhe of Comic Book Club Live.

Delicate, cerebral, skin-fermented Trousseau Gris, sourced from 32-year-old vines in the Russian River Valley farmed by maverick grape grower Peter Fanucchi. The wine comes in two bottlings — one, called “Secret Identity,” ages for six months in stainless steel. The other, “Secret Ingredient,” ages for six months in neutral French oak.

Electric, refreshing Chardonnay with a strong dose of minerality, sourced from the Sonoma Coast’s Michael Mara Vineyard and Napa Valley’s Linda Vista Vineyard, both farmed by celebrated viticulturist Steve Matthiasson. The Chardonnay, too, comes in two bottlings. One, the “Heroine Chardonnay,” is a blend of the two vineyards. The other, the “Heroine ‘MM’ Chardonnay,” comes exclusively from the Michael Mara Vineyard.

All are produced with the assistance of Dan Petroski, the brilliant winemaker behind Massican.

A vinous dream? Yes. But also the real life project of Birk O’Halloran, the New York City wine geek behind Iconic Wine.

East Coast wine enthusiasts may recognize Birk’s name. By day, he works as the east coast sales manager and head of marketing for A.I. Selections, a New York based wine importer. Known as “Acid Inc.,” the company is hugely popular among New York City’s sommeliers because its portfolio includes a killer list of producers.

But by night — thanks to an endless number of overnight deliveries from Dan Petroski — Birk runs Iconic Wine, a label that’s quickly earning acclaim. 

A native of Colorado, Birk headed to upstate New York in 2002 to study hotel administration at Cornell. While there, he realized that drinking was the best part of the hospitality industry. So after graduating, he moved back to Colorado to pursue an advanced sommelier certification from the International Wine Guild and help open KaCee’s Wine and Spirits, a retailer in Westminster.

Birk soon moved back east to help open CoolVines, a New Jersey based retailer that focuses on wine education. In 2009,Birk joined Acid Inc. in New York City and started getting super plugged in to the area food and wine scene.

Through it all, Birk was making regular pilgrimages to Napa Valley — often accompanied by Karl Antle, one of his closest friends from Cornell. In college, according to Birk, the two became friends thanks to their “mutual love for whiskey, witty banter, and all things nerdy.” While Birk and Karl tasted plenty of wine while visiting in Napa, they also developed friendships with some of the winemakers and vineyard managers for whom they had the most respect.

One of those vineyard managers was Steve Matthiasson. And in 2010, after Birk casually mentioned that he’d long dreamed of making wine, Steve offered to secure Birk some Chardonnay from the Michael Mara Vineyard.

So Birk and Karl ponied up their savings, purchased the fruit, and became accidental winemakers. Fortunately, another friend — Dan Petroski — offered to help the men figure it out. Together, they set out to make the “kind of wine we like to drink. Wines of balance, focus, and complexity with a strong connection to and pride for the place they come from.”

The 2010 Chardonnay was a success. Only four barrels were made, and Birk found that he had a thirsty group of friends in New York City who were eager to purchase his wine.

So the next year, Birk expanded his operation, formally hired Petroski as a consultant, and bumped his Chardonnay production up to ten barrels. He also began crafting a Trousseau Gris inspired by Romato, a traditional wine from Friuli, Italy, that’s made from skin-fermented Pinot Grigio.

While the wines are delicious (tasting notes below), the labels are extraordinarily unique.

Birk happily calls himself a “wine geek and a comic book nerd.” So when it came time to figure out a wine label, Birk decided to combine his two passions by hiring an artist to adorn his wine with a superhero.

As Birk explains it in his marketing materials, “The action adventure comic and the super hero are solely an American invention. While we love the wines of Europe… we are making American wine, so it only seemed natural to put a great piece of American heritage and culture on the label.”

“Besides,” he continues, “growing up, who didn’t fantasize about putting on a pair of tights and a cape and fighting alongside our favorite heroes? These days our heroes are winemakers.”

Right now, the wines are available for direct purchase at IconicWine.com and at a handful of restaurants in New York, New Jersey, and California. But Birk hopes to expand in the months ahead. This fall, Birk also has a book coming out — Eat Ink — about chefs and the stories behind their tattoos. 

Reviews below. Wines were tasted sighted. All wines were purchased, but Birk extended a generous trade discount. Read the rest of this entry »

No Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, or Chardonnay here. This week our focus is on some of the lesser-known varieties coming out of California. All were received as press samples and, due to the unique nature of the wines, they were all tasted sighted.

2010 Curtis Roussanne
California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $29. Light gold colored. Aromas of yellow apple, green melon, beeswax. Palate shows medium acid, a little lacking in structure. Apple juice, green tea and green melon flavors mix with notes of clover honey and pineapple. Tangy acid and a hint of mineral linger onto the finish. Overall, not very complex, but it’s got enough verve from the acid to keep it going. (86 points IJB)

2011 Curtis Viognier
California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $29.
A tropical mélange of papaya, pineapple and mango on the nose, but it’s not over the top because there are these bright white flower aromas as well. Plump and generously textured with persistent acid. The papaya, green melon and tangerine flavors are laced with limestone and this flavor that reminds me of a mountain stream. Just a hint of honeycomb and lemon crème, probably from the 8 months this wine spends in contact with the lees. Even so, this is more of a sleeker style of viognier. I really appreciate the overall balance and the length of the finish. (89 points IJB)

2011 Fess Parker Viognier
California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $20
Like potpourri on the nose, with aromas of lilies, honeysuckle, tangerine. Plump on the palate, but the acid is surprisingly fresh. Usually in Central Coast viognier I get too much thickness and not enough acid, but this is fresh and full of nice tart flavors. There’s some nice rich white peach and pineapple, backed up by some oily-nutty notes. Crisp finish. (88 points IJB)

2011 Chatom Vineyards Sémillon
California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County
SRP: $16.
Fresh aromas of pineapple, papaya mixed with salted lime and white flowers. Juicy, light and fresh, with creamy peach and white flower flavors. There’s a flavor that reminds me of lime drizzled on papaya — love it. The waxy aspect makes this interesting. I’d be a happy camper drinking this with fried calamari on a sunny afternoon. (87 points IJB)

2011 Castello di Amorosa Sangiovese “Gioia”
California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $24. This rose of Sangiovese shows a pretty cherry-rose color in the glass. Aromas of McIntosh apples, red plums, wild strawberries and a hint of tobacco. Tart acid on the palate, but it’s balanced by fresh apple, strawberry and watermelon fruit. There’s a kick of pepper, lemon rind and mineral that lingers long onto the finish. Such a crisp wine, it begs for grilled seafood and Greek salads. One of the better domestic roses I’ve had in quite a while. (88 points IJB)

2009 Castello di Amorosa Sangiovese
California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $30. Bright ruby color. Bright and sweet on the nose: red licorice, red cherries, roses, clove and a note that reminds me of sweet paprika. The palate is full of juicy strawberry fruit and lots of acid. Fine tannins combine for an overall creamy mouthfeel. The important thing to note here is that the oak is used judiciously. Notes of green olive and tobacco accentuate the bright red fruit. This is a Cal-Ital done very well, and I frankly enjoy it more than a lot of Tuscan wines at twice the price. 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot. (91 points IJB)

2009 Chatom Vineyards Touriga Nacional
USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County
SRP: $24. Dark berries on the nose, fig paste, mocha, these richer aromas play with herbal and broth aromas as well, and it makes for an interesting combo. Dusty tannins on the palate, medium acid and a balanced mix of fruit and non-fruit flavors: cherry, raspberry, olive, smoke, soy and garlic. Really earthy and briny, and coming from California, I’m enjoying it. The fruit is rich enough to indicate California, but the non-fruit flavors are off the charts. Love it. (88 points IJB)

2010 Fields Family Wines Tempranillo
USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $22. Smoky on the nose, with aromas of charcoal and mocha over top of blackberries and raspberries. Full of dark fruit on the palate, plums, blackberries and blueberries, slathered with rich mocha and baking spices. Fine tannins, low acid, noticeable alcohol, this is a seriously jammy and dense wine, with an almost bourbon-esque finish of sweet coconut. (87 points IJB)

This week’s tasting report focuses on some solid California chardonnays. All wines were received as press samples and tasted blind.

2010 Smith Madrone Chardonnay Estate Bottled - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District ($30)
The fruit smells honeyed and rich, yet these shaved lime peel, sea shell and peanut brittle notes demand attention as well. It all combines in a beautiful aromatic display. This chardonnay introduces itself by barging through the door, with pineapple, melon, honey, and mixed nuts from the oak. (It spends 8 months in 100% new French oak). But it’s still bright from the acid, which is crucial to have in wines with this kind of intensity. Orange peel, seashell, caramel and hazelnut linger long onto the finish. A brave wine that challenges — and rewards — my palate. I’m kind of in love with it. (92 points IJB)

2010 Grgich Hills Chardonnay Estate Grown - USA, California, Napa Valley ($42)
Aromas of juicy yellow apple, pineapple, guava, but there’s also this white flower and sea salt aroma that keeps it from being too rich. The palate is blessed with acid. Richer flavors of pineapple and guava mix with Granny Smith apple, sea shell and striking minerality. The wine is fermented and aged 10 months in 40% new French oak, which adds caramel and nutty notes to the finish. It undergoes no maloactic fermentation, so if you like citrus in your chardonnay, this is perfect. I’m impressed with the depth and balance of this wine. Grgich Hills, blind or sighted, I end up loving these wines. (91 points IJB)

2011 Lawer Family Chardonnay Duck Shack - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley ($22)
Bright on the nose with tart lemons, tangerines and mineral notes. On the palate, this wine has tart acid, creamy body and flavors of green pear, apple and lime. Very tangy and brisk in its approach, with just enough richness and creamy-nutty notes to say, “I’m from California.” The 13.2% alcohol is really refreshing. (88 points IJB)

2011 Breggo Cellars Chardonnay - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley ($28)
The nose reminds me of key lime pie, with the sweet lime, the cream and the graham cracker. Juicy yellow apples on the palate, buttery and creamy. Medium+ acid keeps this together. Nice graham cracker, hazelnut notes linger long onto the finish. A bit simple, but clearly a crowd-pleasing wine. I’m generally more enthusiastic about Breggo wines. (86 points IJB)

2011 Landmark Chardonnay Overlook - USA, California, Sonoma County ($20)
Aromas of honeysuckle, buttered biscuits and fleshy yellow apple. Creamy on the palate, with yellow apple, baked pear, buttercream and toasted oak flavors. Medium acid keeps it fresh. There’s a flavor that reminds me of toasted biscuits. Overall, a solid chardonnay. (87 points IJB)

2011 Artesa Chardonnay Carneros - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros ($20)
Smells of floral perfume and honeysuckle, and I also get some whipped butter and green pear notes. Medium acid on the palate provides counterweight to the creamy body. Honeysuckle and orange blossom mix with yellow and green pears and pineapple. The nutty flavors don’t overwhelm the floral and citrus elements, which makes this a balanced effort. Crisp acid lingers with richer hazelnut notes on the finish. Half the wine was aged six months in 30% new French oak, while the other half spent time in stainless steel, so you get just a hint of the oak, but the wine retains its purity. Great buy at $20. (88 points IJB)

2011 Stepping Stone by Cornerstone White Rocks! – USA, California, North Coast ($18)
Okay, so this isn’t a legit chardonnay, but rather a unique blend of mostly chardonnay with some gewürztraminer Totally tropical on the nose, with white peach, ruby red grapefruit and canned pineapples. On the palate, this wine is plump and juicy, the tropical fruit flavors playing the same riff. Medium acid keeps it from being too thick. Hints of lychee nut, chalk and honeysuckle accent the finish. Who would’ve thought a wine with an exclamation point could be so solid. Open a bottle of this, and bring on summer. (87 points IJB)

All wines were received as press samples and tasted blind.

2008 Franciscan Oakville Estate Magnificat
California, Napa Valley ($50)
The nose is dark and deep and needs some time to open. But I got some lovely smoke and earth, sweet plum, potpourri and toasted oak with some time in the glass. Very creamy on the palate, showing richness but also intensity. Black cherry fruit, earth and mocha are topped with sweet cedary oak, perhaps a bit much for some palates, but I think the oak is balanced by the overall power of the juice. Tobacco and hints of lavender linger onto the finish. Time in the cellar would do this good. A blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Petite Verdot and 2% Malbec. (90 points IJB)

2008 Castello di Amorosa La Castellana
California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain ($88)
Intoxicating aromas of wild raspberries, sweet plums, some violets, fig paste and cedar. Fresh red and black fruits start off the palate, raspberry, plum, fig, even some notes of dried apricot. Flavors of soil, coffee, cedar and hazelnut add complexity. The tannins have smooth edges, making this easy to drink now, although I think it could be cellared for five years easily. The acid lingers onto the finish along subtle notes of vanilla bean and toast. A fruit-forward yet elegant blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 16% Sangiovese. Simply delicious. (91 points IJB)

2009 St. Supery Estate Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon
California, Napa Valley ($30)
Aromas of ground coffee, cherry liqueur and notes of rhubarb. Rich and jammy on the palate, but really firm tannins provide structure. Lots of red currant, red apple peel (no joke) mixed with flavors of vanilla bean and toasted coconut. A solid Cabernet Sauvignon that will gain complexity over the next few years. 5% Merlot in here as well, all aged 22 months in 40% new French oak. (88 points IJB)

2009 Vinifera Wine Co. Cabernet Sauvignon Continental Expedition
California, Napa Valley ($40)
Luscious nose of red and black plums, cherry pie, cedar and cinnamon candies. On the palate, fine tannins and medium acid provide a base for the bright cherry and tangy plum fruit. Cinnamon, cedar, campfire smoke and vanilla bean flavors grab my palate’s attention and keep it. With time, hints of dill pickle and sage drift in and linger through the long finish. Throughout, the wine maintains a very fresh, unassuming style, but it’s layered with complex flavors and seems capable of serious development in the cellar. A Steve Matthiasson wine. (92 points IJB)

2009 Fields Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Dr. Konrad’s Vineyard
California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder ($59)
Aromatically, this wine is rocking: pure plum and blackberry fruit, hints of white and bell pepper, wet leaves. The fruit is distinctly Californian, but it has a Bordeaux-like approach as well, and I love it. Fresh acid balances with fine tannins and rich plum fruit. Complex and lush, with those same peppery notes, tobacco and a braised meat flavor. Soft oak adds toast and vanilla notes, but they don’t overwhelm. Very balanced and ready to drink now. (90 points IJB)

2010 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five
California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District ($72)
Incredibly dark purple color in the glass with thick legs. Aromas of black plums, espresso, toasted oak, hints of rose petals. Grippy tannins provide solid structure. The plum skin, blackberry and cassis flavors are strong and compact and need time to develop. Acid seems a little low. On the finish, flavors of black tea, espresso and dried leaves mingle with a big dose of toasty oak (it’s aged 20 months in 100% new French oak). If you’re drinking it now, a long decant is the way to go. (88 points IJB)

2010 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District
USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District ($70)
Dark and rich on the nose, like blackberries and currants cooked down with brown sugar and ground coffee. Notes of tobacco, dusty earth and anise come out on the nose as well. The tannins are firm and dusty, the acid is focused and the blackberry and currant fruit is pure and velvety. Notes of potting soil, soy sauce, mocha and pipe tobacco add complexity. Long finish with notes of creamy oak. A beautiful example of 2010 Napa Cabernet, and a wine that will do wonders over the next 10-15 years. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in 54% new French oak. (93 points IJB)

2010 Vineyard 29 Cabernet Sauvignon “Cru”
California, Napa Valley, St. Helena ($54)
Dark purple colored. Aromas of dark plums, raspberry jam and sweet pipe tobacco, also some cedar and mocha. Really alluring aromas that transition to rich flavors on the palate. Medium-tannins, medium acid and a rounded use of oak set up the dark plum and boysenberry flavors. Mocha, toast and cherry liqueur mixed in. A rich finish with notes of vanilla and cherry wood. A hedonistic wine, but impressive in its concentration. Aged 18 months in 50% new French oak, this cabernet sauvignon includes 7% Merlot, 4% Malbec, 3% Petite Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. (91 points IJB)

2009 Gundlach Bundschu Mountain Cuvée
USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley ($24)
This wine shows more restraint on the nose, but I mean that in a good way. I smell red currant, sour cherry, rose petals, tobacco and some roasted coffee, and it’s all mixed together really well. Tangy acid and fine-grained tannins on the palate make this so easy to drink. Lovely mix of currant, sour cherry, roasted plum fruit, and it all tastes fresh and crisp. Secondary flavors of tobacco, sage, black pepper. A hint of bacon fat on the long finish. Very Old World in its approach, must more nuanced and subtle than bombastic. Still has a good five years of aging potential. A kitchen sink red blend of 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 6% Zinfandel, 3% Syrah, 3% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec. For the price, a no brainer. (91 points IJB)

2009 Gundlach Bundschu Vintage Reserve
California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley ($80)
A complex and sure to be long-lived wine. Aromas of smoke, tar and loam accent the pure blackberry and cassis. Juicy and fresh on the palate with ripe but firm tannins and fresh acid. The blackberries, fig paste and caramel flavors are deep, verging on the profound. Rich, but not overbearing. Graphite and cocoa powder last long onto the finish. Delicious now, but this will get incrementally better with five years in the cellar. 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. (92 points IJB)

It’s technically spring, although if you’re anywhere in the Midwest or East Coast you may beg to differ. But warm weather and sun will be here soon enough. I’m looking forward to the patio parties, the brighter foods and, of course, the wine. And what better way to welcome in spring than by sipping some Napa Valley sauvignon blanc? Here are four such wines that shouldn’t disappoint. All wines were received as press samples and tasted blind.

Review: 2010 Robert Mondavi Winery Fumé Blanc
USA, California, Napa Valley ($20)
Aromas of lemon, margarita salt, grapefruit rind, some green melon… very expressive. Tangy, full, lots of pineapple and key lime flavors, white flowers. Very fresh acid, yet really rich. Creamy-coconut flavors accent the finish. This is such a consistently good wine. There’s 6% Semillon in here as well. (88 points IJB)

Review: 2012 St. Supéry Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc
USA, California, Napa Valley ($20)
This sauvignon blanc shows lots of tropical aromas (mango, papaya, orange peel) mixed with notes of sage and a hint of green onion. Creamy tropical fruit on the palate but also lots of green grass, sage and white pepper notes. I really like the way the herbal kick and acid linger onto the finish. (87 points IJB)

Review: 2011 Grgich Hills Fumé Blanc Dry Sauvignon Blanc
USA, California, Napa Valley ($30)
A pretty aromatic display of guava, pineapple, lemon-lime and notes of sea shell. Plump on the palate, with lots of fresh guava and mango fruit, but the acid stays focused throughout and keeps this wine fresh. Notes of chives, grapefruit rind and sea shell add depth to the hazelnut and whipped honey flavors. Creamy yet tangy on the finish with surprising length. Very impressive. (89 points IJB)

Review: 2011 Vineyard 29 Sauvignon Blanc Cru
USA, California, Napa Valley ($54)
This wine is not kidding around with the aromatics: a deep and complex mix of key lime, lemon zest, sea salt, pineapple… it’s like the Caribbean in a glass. This wine is full-bodied and rich, but the live-wire acid keeps it zesty. I love the flavors of lime, papaya, sea salt, mixed with richer notes of apricot, golden pear and honey. Notes of oyster shell and minerals linger onto the long finish. It’s the most expensive wine in this tasting, and justifiably so. This is gorgeous California sauvignon blanc that deserves some of the freshest scallops or a sweet-glazed salmon. Aged 11 months in 65% French oak (30% new), 25% concrete and 10% stainless steel. (93 points IJB)

It started cold and rainy. There was mold while flowering dawdled, and anti-rot sprays were commonplace. Spring hail destroyed a few great vines in St. Émilion and Côtes de Castillion. Summer was bright with sun, but cool and slightly damp overall. Bordeaux needed something on which to hang its hat, and soon.

Finally, during harvest, the region had constant warm and dry weather. Vineyard managers that were hoping for some extra hang time were rewarded.

I found one of those wines. This wine was bought at retail and tasted blind, for exam practice.

A dark, opaque ruby core fled almost the entire way to a thin, clear meniscus. Fruits were dark. Boysenberry, currant and raspberry aromas, all just ripe, were on the forefront. Secondary whiffs of smoke, toast, bacon, vanilla and violets abounded. The wine was massive on the palate, featuring ribeye-demanding tannins and gravel galore. Savory aspects and a lush mouth feel gave the wine great depth.  What was on the fence on the nose just became an old world wine. My only rag on this bottle is a just-moderate amount of acidity. Granted though, it comes with the territory of the Cabernet family, and a long watery vintage.

My solution: Put that ribeye on the grill.

The wine was the 2008 Clos René Pomerol. I’ve found some great wines on the right bank in this frustrating vintage, St Émilion, Pomerol, and the satellites alike. This is one of the best.

In the hands of the Lasserre family for 6 generations, Clos René also employs Michel Rolland as a consulting enologist. The 72 acres of vines and resulting wines unsurprisingly feature Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but the estate’s inclusion of 10% Malbec is the highest percentage in Pomerol. They have a second wine out there, too, with Moulinet-Lasserre.

Pomerol is certainly the diamond in the rough of 2008, and at $30, Clos René is worth seeking out. I’ll likely purchase a few more and revisit them later in life!

Recently I tasted through a bunch of Cabernet Sauvignons from all across the New World. All wines were received as press samples and tasted blind. I didn’t know anything about the wines except that they were New World cabs.

I was under the assumption I was sipping somewhat young cabernets, so I tried to give each wine some air time and swirling before finalizing my notes and unveiling the wines. This paid off, as many of the wines that smelled and tasted hesitant upon uncorking really opened up and became much more expressive. Cabernet, being such an age-worthy grape, can be tight and harsh when young, and most of these wines need three-to-five years to show their best stuff.

Review: 2010 Pyren Cabernet Sauvignon Broken Quartz
Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Pyrenees
$22. Big candied nose of red licorice, purple laffy taffy and vanilla. On the palate, medium-grain tannins, quite low acid on the acid. The red cherry and plum fruit tastes roasted and jammy. The oak on this wine is really intense, making any nuance or subtlety impossible to detect. A candied, raisined, oak-bomb style. The ringer here is the alcohol: 12%?! Strange that a wine so dark and fruity can have such low alcohol, although the oak and jammy fruit make this wine feel as full-bodied as a 15% Aussie shiraz. (85 points IJB)

Review: 2010 Robert Oatley Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River
Australia, Western Australia, Margaret River
$17. Aromas of bright raspberries, red currants and red licorice, backed up with some chocolaty oak. Medium-grain tannins and moderate acid. Roasted plums and sweet raspberry flavors abound, as well as rich chocolate-covered cherries and toasty oak. But the cigar smoke and crushed rock flavors make this more than just a fruit bomb. Solid finish. This wine has a rich style, but it’s well-structured and complex. (88 points IJB)

Review: 2010 Apaltagua Cabernet Sauvignon Signature
Chile, Maipo Valley
$27. Black currant, cedar, piles of wet leaves, a hint of alcohol on the end of the nose. Firm tannins, medium concentration, perhaps a bit harsh around the edges, but the cherry cola, blackberry fruit and creamy oak add a velvety texture. Dark chocolate and campfire smoke linger onto the finish. Not the most complex cab, but enjoyable. (86 points IJB)

Review: 2010 Bartinney Helshoogte Cabernet Sauvignon
South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
$ Unknown. This wine seriously smells like potting soil. Lots of rich, loamy, earthy notes to highlight the roasted plum and smoky blackberry aromas. Fine tannins, medium acid on the palate. Interesting mix of cranberry and black cherry fruit, laced with campfire smoke, loam and cracked pepper. This cabernet has a very rustic approach, one that screams South Africa. (87 points IJB)

Review: 2009 Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon Artisan Series
USA, California, Napa Valley
$46. Deep aromas of blackberry, blueberry, milk chocolate and cedar. Starts off with a great blend of freshness and bright fruit, followed up my very fine tannins. Flavors of tangy cherry accent the bold blackberry and blueberry fruit. The vanilla and oak is well-integrated. Notes of dried tobacco, cedar and chestnut last onto the finish. Plump and fleshy, but surprisingly smooth and sleek. There’s 4% merlot and 3% petite verdot in this red, which was aged 18 months in 45% new French oak. (88 points IJB)

Review: 2010 Melka Cabernet Sauvignon CJ
USA, California, Napa Valley
$57. Rich and dense on the nose, with plum, black currant, charcoal and graphite. On the palate, we’re talking about the freshest blackberry and currant fruit, backed up with vanilla bean, cream oak and roasted coffee. Rich and layered, with lots of earth and mineral. A wine I’d love to revisit in eight-to-ten years. A blend of 83% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 5% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot aged 20 months in 45% new French oak. (92 points IJB)

Review: 2010 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
USA, California, Napa Valley
$28. What an alluring and complex nose of blueberry cheesecake topping, rich milk chocolate and a spicy (paprika? red pepper?) note. Medium-grain tannins provide a wealth of structure for the blackberry and blueberry fruit. The medium acid keeps the wine balanced. The caramel, toffee and sweet oak flavors are delicious, but there’s also some serious scorched earth, tree bark and pepper flavors that I love. Bold, and it could age for a few years easily, but undeniable delicious to drink now. A blend of 83% cabernet sauvignon, 12% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% syrah, aged 18 months in 15% new French oak.
(90 points IJB)

Review: 2009 Cornerstone Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
USA, California, Napa Valley
$62. Deep and saucy on the nose, with gushing blueberries and blackberries, backed up by tobacco leaf and sage. After an hour, the aromas come into full force, showing mocha and clove. Gritty, almost chewy tannins combine with gobs of blackberry and blueberry fruit. Fresh acid keeps this wine going while the waves of secondary flavors come in: baker’s chocolate, cedar, clove, peppermint. Long finish laced with all sorts of fruit and earth flavors. While I loved drinking this now, I’m sure I’d enjoy this more in two or three years. 95% cabernet and 5% merlot, this wine is sourced from the Ink Grade Vineyard on Howell Mountain as well as vineyards in Oak Knoll, Oakville and Carneros. (91 points IJB)

Review: 2009 Cornerstone Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain
USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
$70. Aromas of milk chocolate, fresh blackberries, blueberry jam and some rich earth. On the palate, this cabernet shows pure plum and blackberry fruit, along with fine tannins and refreshing acid. I love the dark blueberry, blackberry, earth and mineral flavors. Dense, but the acid makes is such a pleasure to drink. Tasted blind, I guessed both Cornerstone wines as Washington State cabernet because they both have that purity and richness I associate with Washington. This wine is more evidence of why Howell Mountain is an amazing place for cabernet. A solid wine that will evolve for a decade-plus. 95% cabernet and 5% merlot from the Ink Grade Vineyard at 1,800 feet. (91 points IJB)

Review: 2007 Smith Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Bottled
USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
$42. Dark and brooding on the nose, with blackberries, cassis, toasted oak and hints of sweet mocha. Dry, tight tannins on the palate. The heavily toasted oak bursts onto the scene early and stands its ground until the finish. (When I poured a glass for my girlfriend, her first response was: “Did they age this in whiskey barrels?”) Luckily there’s a good dose of blackberries and plums fruit, which is powerful enough to tame the oak just a bit. Violet, soil and tobacco leaf flavors (almost undetectable upon uncorking) become vibrant with just 15 minutes of air, and more and more so over the course of a few hours. That sweet mocha flavor lingers long onto the finish. Good stuff, but you must be a fan of the toast. Aged 22 months in new American oak, this cab contains 2% cab franc and 1% merlot. (88 points IJB)

Review: 2009 Lawer Family Cabernet Sauvignon Three Coins
USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
$42. The nose is compact right now, but this cab clearly has some incredible aromas buried deep down there. After two hours open, the aromas really opened up: raspberry and red currant fruit, dust and earth, even a hint of black tea. The palate is a wave of the freshest raspberry, blueberry and red plum fruit, just beautiful. The medium acid and fine tannins keep this wine balanced and focused. Pretty secondary flavors of dusty wood, loam and graphite. Clearly a wine that could spend some time in the cellar, but undeniably delicious now. (91 points IJB)

Review: 2008 Jordan Vineyard & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley
USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
$52. Really candied on the nose, with sweet plums, those Haribo raspberry candies, creme brulee. Medium acid, fine tannins, very bright in its approach. Lots of plummy, raspberry fruit along with toasty oak and caramel. Yummy, but lacking serious depth and complexity. (87 points IJB)

Review: 2007 Kachina Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley
USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
$42. It’s not often I come across a California cabernet that so closely resembles Bordeaux. The aromas stand out because they play with both old and new world themes: red currants, raspberry jam, piles of wet leaves, fresh-cut cedar, smashed rocks, pickling spice, notes of dried flowers. On the palate, this wine shows fine tannins; combine that with tangy acid and waves of bright red fruit (again with the raspberry and red currant). Notes of cedar, bay leaf and red clay add complexity. It has elegance and earthiness, and is showing some of its secondary characteristics. I think this could be cellared for at least five years, especially if you like those aged Bordeaux flavors. A wine for new and old world lovers alike. Equal parts intellectual stimulation and hedonistic satisfaction. (92 points IJB)

Review: 2008 Passalacqua Winery Cabernet Sauvignon TR Passalacqua Vineyard Block 18 & 19
USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
$65. Interesting mix of aromas: red plums and raspberries are followed up by walnut shell and an aroma that reminds me of a dusty bookshelf. Medium bodied with significant acid and medium tannins. Some nice red cherry and plum flavors, along with flavors of cedar shavings and more walnut shell. Hints of earth, mocha and green coffee linger onto the finish. Initially I thought this wasn’t the deepest cabernet, but after an hour or two it started getting more serious. Perhaps more time is needed to best judge this wine. (87 points IJB)

Review: 2009 Fritz Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley
USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
$35. Hugely aromatic right out of the bottle, with loads of blueberry, blackberry and black cherry fruit. Notes of cinnamon, mocha and clove round out the nose. A firm tannic backbone combines with fresh acid on the palate. The blackberry and black currant fruit tastes plush and tangy, not overripe. I love the secondary flavors of rocky soil, leather, iron and sweet pipe tobacco, but this wine clearly needs time to unwind and show its best. The toasty-mocha and Nutella spread flavors last long onto the finish. A serious, granite-structured cabernet that will reward the patient. Considering the quality, this is a serious value. (93 points IJB)

Review: 2009 Long Shadows Wineries Cabernet Sauvignon Feather
USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
$52. This cabernet has the guts to show some complex aromas, but right now it’s really tight, just like paint on the nose, with some black currant, black tea and toast. A few hours of air can do wonders for this wine, bringing out more earthy, roast coffee and pepper aromas. This wine has a bold, grippy and tannin-packed approach. For this young of a wine, the acid gives it a tug toward balance. The currant and blackberry fruit tastes pure, velvety, downright sexy. I like the tobacco leaf and spiced coffee flavors, and when I tasted blind this blind I guessed it to have some cabernet franc. But this 100% cabernet is beautiful, and it has the potential for a decade of cellaring. Here’s my attempt at objectifying this wine with a number: (92 points IJB)

Wines Scoring <85 points
Review: 2008 Graffigna Cabernet Sauvignon Centenario Reserve
Argentina, San Juan
$11. On the nose, a whole lot of vanilla, along with reduced plums and some mulling spices. On the palate, this wine tastes of tart cherries and under-ripe strawberries. The combination of sour red fruit, bitter tannins and an overdose of oak make this a strange beast. The oak tears up any other flavors. No specific faults, just a poorly-made wine. I came back to the wine several times over the course of a couple of hours, and it never got better. I ended up pouring it down the drain.

That’s my report. The takeaway? I need to buy more domestic Cabernets and squirrel them away in my cellar. While many of these wines were delicious, the best deserve some time sideways.