The barrel room at Robert Mondavi.

“His passion… was crafting beautiful wines, and evangelizing the wine-centric lifestyle, a mash-up of good wine, good food, good conversation, good friends, fine art, hard work, and above all, an appreciation for all the pleasures that ensued.” In honor of Robert Mondavi’s 100th birthday, Paul Gregutt writes a touching post. 

“Maybe it’s a matter of experience. Or maybe it’s contrariness. But what is it about some wine lovers that makes them so unwilling to accept certain realities?” In his latest WineSpectator.com column, Matt Kramer brings attention to two realities that wine enthusiasts seem unwilling to accept.

In the Washington Post, Dave McIntyre profiles Carlton McCoy, a DC-native who recently earned the rank of master sommelier. 

Elsewhere in the Post, McIntyre suggest “5 summer wines to try.” (Domaine Pfister’s Cuvee 8 is absolutely delicious.) 

In Sonoma, the value of grapes is skyrocketing.  

“Culture, not politics, is key when it comes to selling Turkish wines in America.” Mike Veseth writes a thoughtful piece on Turkish wines. 

At Wakawaka Wine Reviews, Elaine Brown previews Forlorn Hope’s 2012 St Laurent. 

“[Oregon] is inspired by Burgundy, but it’s not Burgundy.” In Wine-Searcher, W. Blake Gray chats with Veronique Drouhin-Boss, head winemaker at both Domaine Drouhin in the Willamette Valley and Maison Joseph Drouhin in Burgundy. 

On Brunellos Have More Fun, Whitney Adams chats with Christine Marais Hoffman, a sommelier at Terroni who happens to be pregnant. 

Over at Reign of Terroir, Ken Payton chats with Pierre Galet, the “father of modern ampelography.” 

Texas Viognier might be worth trying.  

Jamie Goode offers some quick impressions from Vinexpo.  

E! News reports: “Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt’s wine has been a nonstop success since it first landed on the shelves in March of this year.”

From Wikimedia.

In Vouvray, some vineyards have experienced total loss of this year’s crop from hail damage. Details from Chris Kissack and The Drinks Business. 

“It makes the New World, in this way, so exciting… We’re striving for what expresses these sites in the most beautiful way. We don’t know what that is yet.” In Wine & Spirits, Elaine Brown reports on “The Seven Percenters.” 

“Two good journalists, Mike Dunne and Rick Kushman, took over the California State Fair competition this year. That’s why I agreed to judge.” W. Blake Gray judges at this year’s California State Fair competition. One conclusion? California Chardonnay is completely different now. 

“When a national wine consumer rights organization does launch… one would expect and hope that those members of the trade who have an interest, financial and philosophical, in seeing consumer wine laws liberalized will support consumers.” Tom Wark explains why “the… interests of the wine trade are nearly identically aligned with the political and financial interests of consumers.” 

On Forbes.com, Larry Olmsted chats with Francis Ford Coppola about wine.’ 

Elsewhere in Forbes, Katie Kelly Bell profiles “The Steve Jobs Of Wine: Winemaker Paul Hobbs.” 

“When Napa almost always gets knocked for its pricing, it’s worth noting that in the long view, things are neither as good nor as bad as they seem.” Jon Bonné offers some historical perspective on the pricing of Napa Cabernet.  

“What’s in that bottle anyway?” In the San Jose Mercury News, Laurie Daniel writes about ingredient labeling on wine bottles. 

“The global online wine market is worth around $5 billion and continues to grow by more than 30 percent each year.” In Wine-Searcher, Rebecca Gibb provides some fascinating numbers on online wine sales. 

“Still, restaurants like Commander’s Palace must constantly come up with ways to sell more wine.” In Bloomberg, John Mariani wonders who orders those $10,000 wines off restaurant wine lists. 

Wine has become democratic and modern. There are prices and drinking styles to suit everyone. So why hasn’t the closure method evolved?” In BBC News Magazine, Tom de Castella wonders why people are such snobs about corks.

I think of Lodi as the journeyman of California wine regions. It gets beat up a lot and frequently overlooked in conversations about premium California wine. I’m guilty of this as much as anyone, as I tend to focus much more on Sonoma, Mendocino, Napa and some of the Central Coast regions.

I still tend to think of Lodi as workhorse wine region, a sprawling inland area that turns out lots of Zinfandel and Rhone-style blends. And there’s some truth to that. According to the California Department of Agriculture’s 2011 Grape Crush Report, Lodi produced 32% of California’s Zinfandel crop and 42% of its Petite Sirah. The region is home to mass producers like Robert Mondavi Woodbridge and Sutter Home, and giants like E&J Gallo and Beringer have long bought Lodi fruit for their wines. If you’ve ever tasted a sticky-sweet “white Zinfandel,” odds are some of the fruit came from Lodi.

But Lodi’s wine history is extensive, its soils varied, and its climate conducive to a wide array of varieties. And as more and more “botique” wineries are making unique, hand-crafted wines, the more I feel Lodi deserves attention.

So I was happy when I heard the Lodi Winegrape Commission was hosting an online tasting of some pink wines from Lodi. Cameron King, Executive Director of the Lodi Winegrape Commission, joined up with Lodi winemaker Chad Joseph to sip and discuss a few 2012 rosés from the region. During the on-line chat, Joseph said of Lodi: “There’s something for everyone.” Indeed. There is great diversity of grapes and styles found in Lodi, as these four rosés demonstrate.

Forget the white Zinfandel of yore. If you’re looking for some summer sippers, Lodi offers much better and tastier rosés. Check out my notes below the fold. Read the rest of this entry »

“Since leaving the apparel business some 25 years ago, he doesn’t seem to have spent much time thinking about clothes.” In the Wall Street Journal, Jay McInerney visits the extreme Sonoma Coast to spend some time with David Hirsch.  

“Perhaps people go nuts about Jura because the wines are so distinctive yet quite complicated.” Jancis Robinson was impressed with London’s first-ever Jura wine delegation, of 28 different vignerons. 

Cambridge University won this year’s Left Bank Bordeaux Cup. 

The Wine Company, an importer and wholesaler based in Saint Paul, chats with me!  

In Palate Press, Michael Cervin writes about “The (Very) Slow Rise of the Wines of Crete.”  

Just as Turkey’s “wines are getting better and better,” heavy-handed regulations are making it harder than ever for producers to sell their wares within the country. 

Tom Wark comments on the “the recommendation of a powerful group French of health advocates that… wine blogs, social media postings and other online outlets be banned from promoting, advertising or otherwise celebrating wine.” Alder Yarrow is also angry about it. 

In China, wine distributors are stocking up on purchases amid fear that the nation’s trade fight with the European Union will drive up import tariffs. 

“The wine market is dead. It could take years for this market to recover.” Evidence is emerging that the wine investing is “floundering.” 

“It isn’t only the diversity in the cuisine that intimidates many when it comes to pairing Cantonese food with wine, but the order in which the food is enjoyed.” In her latest Wine-Searcher column, Jeannie Cho Lee MW writes about pairing wines with Asian cuisines. 

As I passed from vineyard to vineyard, which are often nestled in the hillsides next to these villages, I couldn’t help but think that if ever a wine’s character reflected a place, then it is in Rioja.” In the Montreal Gazette, Bill Zacharkiw writes about the “charm of old Rioja.” 

Jordan Vineyards & Winery has launched its “first Estate Tour & Tasting experience.”

This week, we’re talking California Pinot Noir. All bottles were received as trade samples and tasted blind.

2010 Pence Ranch Winery Pinot Noir Estate
California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $30
The aromas are full and savory, with blackberry, rhubarb, roasted plum, some tobacco. Juicy and berry-driven on the palate, with velvety tannins and bright acid. The notes of earth and black pepper and bay leaf are delicious, adding a savory touch to all the bright strawberry fruit. Long finish. A bright and juicy pinot, but it pays homage to the Old World as well. (90 points IJB)

2009 Storm Wines Pinot Noir
California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $40
Love the bright cherry color, and how you can see your fingers through the wine. Intensely floral on the nose, equally matched with cherry and red plum aromas. There’s also this earthy, olive-like aroma that, tasting blind, makes me think of Burgundy, but the juicy and deep fruit screams California. The tannins are grippy, the acid rushes, the fruit explodes. The strawberry, wild cherry and red plum is both rich and tangy at the same time. The fruit mixes in with notes of dill and tobacco, along with a touch of toast. The finish is like some sort of beautiful fruit and herb cocktail. This is a really interesting and thought-provoking wine that deserves a good decant and a home-cooked meal. Only 13.5% alcohol. (92 points IJB)

2010 Artesa Pinot Noir Carneros
California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $40
A mixture of sweet and sour cherries on the nose, along with some violets, vanilla and oak. On the palate, this is a medium-bodied wine with fine tannins and noticeable acid. The cherry and strawberry fruit tastes cool and juicy. I also enjoy the rose hip tea, coffee and cedar notes that last onto the finish. Overall, this is a lighter, fresher styled pinot that is easy to enjoy. (87 points IJB)

2010 Gloria Ferrer Pinot Noir Estate
California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $27
The cherry and cranberry fruit on the nose is ripe but snappy, and the notes of rhubarb, white pepper and milk chocolate make this a pleasure to sniff. Bright raspberry and cherry fruit, backed up with a good dose of acid and some fine, easy-sipping tannins. The juicy fruit combines with subtle pickle and earth notes, and a solid finish. This wine seems destined for drinking over the near term, but that’s not to say it’s a simple wine. (88 points IJB)

2011 Breggo Cellars Pinot Noir
California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $38
The aromas of cranberry and wild raspberry have a cool and crisp aura, and the notes of cracked pepper and bay leaf blend together very nicely. The tannins are easy-going but provide enough structure, and the acid is fresh and consistent. The raspberry and sour cherry fruit is ripe but snappy, like berries fresh from the forest. There’s also a meaty-brothy aspect that is quite prominent, along with cracked pepper and herbs. Throughout, the wine maintains a light presence on the palate. An elegant pinot, very delicious, but it strikes me as best for drinking sooner rather than later. (89 points IJB)

2008 Azari Winery Pinot Noir Corkscrew
California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $29
Juicy on the nose, with fresh blackberry and raspberries mixed with a bit of dust and pepper. Really tangy on the palate, with medium tannins. All kinds of juicy cherry flavors, rounded out with hints of leather and earth. Goes down easily. (87 points IJB)

2009 Azari Winery Pinot Noir
California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $75
Aromas of raspberry, black cherries, cola, hints of earth. Velvety tannins set the stage for gushing black cherry and plum fruit, backed up by notes of sweet roses, mocha, vanilla coke and toasty oak. Moderate acid helps keep the wine together. The finish is full of vanilla and toast. Overall, a solid, silky and fruit-forward wine. (87 points IJB)

2010 MacPhail Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $39
Cherry jam, mixed berries and rhubarb on the nose. The palate shows medium acid, light tannins and bright cherry and raspberry fruit. Notes of sweet basil and rosemary add some complexity. Hints of earth and olive came out with time. (87 points IJB)

Each week, as regular readers know, we pose a series of questions to a winemaker. This week, we’re featuring Sebastian Donoso, winemaker at Campovida in Hopland, California. 

Donoso, a native of Chile, earned his degree in enology and viticulture from California State University, Fresno. While there, he worked under John Giannini, who heads up Fresno State’s Winery and wine production program. He then went to Saracina Vineyards, spending four years as an enologist and assistant winemaker under Alex MacGregor before landing at Campovida. 

Check out our interview with Sebastian below the fold.  Read the rest of this entry »

One of California's best.

“California is an awfully big wine-producing world. It’s time to embrace it.” In the New York Times, Eric Asimov praises Dirty & Rowdy, Massican, Matthiasson, and seven other “producers worth seeking out.” #GoAmerica

“When it comes to stocking up the cellar for the summer months, an eclectic choice of wines is required to cope with every eventuality.” Some sage advice from Will Lyons in the Wall Street Journal Europe. 

Shanken News Daily reports that “California’s premium-plus wine segment ($10-and-above) is thriving.” 

“If I do suddenly go, John has to bottle the Pinot for me.” Hawk Wakawaka spends time with two of California’s most exciting winemakers, John Lockwood and David Mahaffey. 

Two wine collectors from New York are suing Charlie Trotter. The allegation? Selling a counterfeit magnum of 1945 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. 

Alfonso Cevola spends “A week on (and on and on) the wine trail in California.” 

“The wines are a throwback to an era of low-alcohol, terroir-driven purity that is a rare treasure today.” In the latest email from Weygandt Wines, Sam Mitchell profiles Domaine Saladin. 

Forbes offers an “Insider’s Guide To Food And Wine Classic In Aspen.” 

In New Zealand, winemakers are hailing the 2013 vintage as “one of the best in history.” 

In Chicago, Binny’s is slated to become “one of the largest beverage alcohol superstores in the world.” 

VinTank releases version 3.0. (Last year, Alder Yarrow explained why VinTank rocks.)

Limestone in Nemea

Ever visited a winegrowing region and not been impressed by its beauty? Didn’t think so.

Santorini was beautiful — the vineyards were rustic, planted haphazardly. The following day we traveled from Athens west to Nemea, where cliffs intermingled with well-trained vineyards, olive trees, and small towns. We were in the the most important “Protected Designation of Origin” (PDO) of the Peloponnese peninsula and could sense this tasting was going to be something special.

The only dry red appellation of the Peloponnese peninsula, Nemea can be viewed in 3 sections of altitude. The valley floor rises from 750 to 1400 feet, with a mixture of clay and limestone soils. Many of the unoaked, young drinking wines are grown here. Above 2100 feet, the grapes retain their acidity and produce much of the rosé bottlings. In the middle is where the limestone takes hold of the vines and yields the most age-worthy wines, all made from Agiorgitiko.

Say it with me: eye-ore-YEE-tee-koh.

Also known as Saint George, it is the sole grape of the Nemea appellation wines, and only dry red PDO of the peninsula. The wines were pretty, showing red fruits of ripe to dried character, lots of savory notes ranging from herbs to meat and smoke, abundant acidity and a range of oak treatments. If a red PDO wine is labeled as “Reserve” it must spend a year in oak, six months in bottle and a total of two years aging at the winery. “Grand Reserve” wines require 18 months each in barrel and bottle. Many producers are blending Agiorgitiko with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and other grapes, but in my opinion, it’s best left on its own. It has a unique and delicate structure easily overpowered by others.

The table of the day for me was Papaioannou. Headlined by their aged Nemea bottlings, they showed a couple great whites as well. Some tasting notes and more thoughts below the fold! Read the rest of this entry »

Facebook.com/sommdocfilm.

In a smart post, Joe Roberts details “The Fast Track To Wine Authority That Nobody’s Taking.” Tom Wark agrees. 

Inspired by the news that thieves broke into Chateau d’Yquem, Dr. Vino lists the 12 largest wine heists.

“Just like sommeliers, today’s well known bartenders often garner a reputation for a specific area of expertise. The wine community associates Paul Grieco with Riesling in much the same way that the cocktail community associates Phil Ward with mezcal.” Eater’s Levi Dalton explores the divide  between wine enthusiasts and spirits obessessives.

“Wise takes the viewer through the vineyard, harvest, crush, fermentation, barreling and bottling of wine in a zippy opening, and in about the time it takes to open and pour a glass of wine, viewers are launched into the story.” Paul Gregutt reviews SOMM.

No one will ever finish that book on wine. There’s just too much to know, and it’s constantly evolving, constantly changing.” On WineSpectator.com, Ben O’Donnell chats with David O’Day, the wine director of Del Frisco.

“A new website to be launched at the start of Vinexpo… is designed for wine enthusiasts wanting to find a soul mate.” Wine-Searcher has the details on VineaLove.

“I think if more people drank Champagne on a regular basis the world would be a better place.” Elsewhere in Wine-Searcher, Rebecca Gibb chats with Doug Shafer.

“The over-valued Aussie dollar has affected all segments of the Australian wine industry, but bulk wine sales have been perhaps the most impacted because international competition is so fierce for commodity wines.” Mike Veseth dives into the latest economic news from Australia to explain how it’s impacting the wine market.

Alder Yarrow tastes his way through Italy’s “best wines” at OperaWine 2013.

In Bloomberg, Miles Weiss reports that “Goldman Sachs… accepted almost 15,000 bottles of fine wine as loan collateral from a former high-ranking executive.” Over at Forbes, Kathryn Tully wonders if more collectors will turn wine into cash.

Santorini. It’s as beautiful as advertised.

Widely considered the top wine region of Greece, Santorini is essentially the leftovers of a cataclysmic volcanic eruption circa 1,500 BC. The detailed history can be greatly explained by a tour guide at the ancient city of Akrotiri, where archaeologists have been excavating for 45 years. Shockingly, the city had two-story buildings and indoor plumbing 3,500 years ago!

The volcanic soil on the island has left Santorini with some of the oldest vines in the world — some are well over 100 years old. The high Meltemi winds, presence of sand, and lack of organic matter leave phylloxera with nothing to survive on. The same blustering gales forced development of a vine training system where the vines are intertwined within themselves, forming a basket to protect the fruit.

That precious fruit is generally Assyrtiko, a grape that can be blended with Athiri and Aidani to qualify for the “Santorini” appellation status. Most wines show high minerality, screaming acid, and spice, which is occasionally tamed by French oak.

Old Assyrtiko, showing the basket weave.

If you are Tuscan, stop reading now. Santorini is believed by many in the area to have first produced what is now called Vin Santo. Assyrtiko grapes are dried on mats to the desired level of desiccation, and after a slow fermentation, are aged in barrel for an extended time. We tasted one that spent 20 years there. Thus, many different profiles of vin santo exist, ranging from just sweet enough to unctuous and lavish.

A few tasting highlights below the fold. Read the rest of this entry »